Los Angeles, CA | San Francisco, CA
Also known as: msenese
Executive Editor, @MAKE magazine. TV host on Discovery Science ChannelHow Stuff Works, Punkin Chunkin, etc.
San Francisco, CA | Fayetteville, NY
If you don't know what Italy is like in August, you'll be surprised. It's hot, damn hot. The entire country takes off for vacation, leaving for the coast to stay cool. As I flew into Rome, things felt amiss. On my rented bike I was only finding tourists: Spaniards, Germans, Americans. My plan was to take the train straight to Naples and get a slice of pizza; my trip was only supposed to last a couple days. One week later, I was finally riding the rails south. Stepping into the piazza from the Napoli train station was unbelievable. My previous trip, it was a deathtrap of screeching cars, pickpockets, hustlers and hookers. This time, there was nothing but scraps of paper blowing across the hot, empty streets. All the shops had their metal gratings closed and locked. "This can't be," ran through my mind over and over. I found some shade along the edge of the sidewalk and I wandered. I was looking for the old part of town, where the pizzeria I had been dreaming about is located. When you see pictures of Naples, its the old town they show. Narrow streets with laundry lines up above. Intricately tall buildings stretching up three or four stories protecting you from the sun. The area has a bazaar feel, but not in August when it's damn hot, quiet, and desolate. As I approached Pizzeria DiMateo, a terrible feeling came over me. "Closed until September" the sign said. "No, no..." All this way with one goal in mind. I settled into a cheap hotel with a ceiling fan blowing the humid sticky air down at me. There was no way that I could wait three more weeks. And that's when the adventure began.
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